Garnett machine

A type of carding machine, containing rollers and cylinders covered with metallic teeth, similar in shape to the teeth of a saw, which is used to open up soft and hard wastes.

Garnetting

A process for reducing various textile waste materials to fiber by passing them through a machine called a garnett that is similar to a card.

Garter band

A band on a stocking, following the welt, in which there is a variation of quality, stitch, and/ or yarn.

Garter webbing

An elastic narrow fabric, sometimes multicoloured, characterized by selvedges that form a frill on relaxation. It may also be a medium-strength elastic narrow fabric for supporting socks or stockings.

Gas

To singe, i.e., to remove unwanted surface fibres on a fabric or yarn by passage through a flame (see singe).

Gas Fading

A change of shade of dyed fabric caused by chemical reaction between certain disperse dyes and acid gases from fuel combustion particularly oxides of nitrogen.

Gas fume fading

An irreversible change in hue which occurs when textiles, particularly cellulose acetate, triacetate and polyamide dyed with certain aminoanthraquinone disperse dyes, are exposed to oxides of nitrogen which arise, for exatyiple, from gas or storage heaters.

Gassed yarn

A yarn that has been passed through a flame or over a heated element to remove unwanted surface fibres.
Note: A 'genappe yarn' (Genappe in Belgium) is a gassed worsted yarn.

Gassing

See SINGEING.

Gathering

The formation of a style feature in garments or other made-up goods by drawing material together into a succession of small folds (gathers) and retaining by stitching or other means.pinchingThe formation of small individual gathers along a stitch line. rufflingA method of gathering iyiaterial, by feeding in faster to the needle, than it is fed away from the needle. This is accomplished manually, or by a sewing machine attachment, or by means of differential feed.shirringThe formation of a series of parallel gatherings, normally produced using a inulti-needle chainstitch machine, in which elastomeric yarn is included to allow subsequent stretch in use. (See also shirring thread.)gating; gaiting (knitting)The relative aligni-nent of two sets of knitting elements, e.g., needles, on knitting machines. Two forms of needle gating (rib and interlock) are common and may be interchangeable on the same machine. Types of gating are:interlock gating; interlock gaiting (knitting)The opposed alignment of one set of needles with the other on a knitting machine. purl gating; purl gaiting (weft knitting)The opposed alignment oftricks of two needle beds lying in the same plane, on a machine equipped with double-headed needles.rib gating; rib gaiting (knitting)The alternate alignment of one set of needles with the other on a machine equipped with two sets of needles arranged to knit rib fabrics.gauge; cut (knitting)1. A term giving a notional indication of the number of needles per unit length, along a needle bed or needle bar, of a knitting machine. In current practice a common unit length of 1 'English' inch (25.4mm) is used for all types of warp and weft knitting machines.
Note 1.. For circular knitting machines, the length referred to is measured along the circumference of the needle cylinder. Such values are generally quoted to the nearest whole number (or to the nearest 1/2 if less than 5) and, in keeping with the present national and international use of the concept, written as 'E10', say, rather than as '10 needles/inch', or the older abbreviated form 'I10'.
Note 2: Gauging systems other than the above are still used. The more common systems and the types of knitting machine to which they apply are as follows:
(i) loop wheel machines: the number of needles in 1.5 inches (38.Imm) of circumference;
(ii) raschel machines: the number of needles in 2 'English' inches (i.e., 50.8mm) or, much less commonly, 2 saxon inches (i.e., 47.2mm) of a needle bed. Such gauges based on English inches are written in the form 'ER10';
(iii) sinker wheel machines: the number of needles in 1 zoll (fein) or 1.5 zoll (gross) measured 148along the arc of the holes drilled in the needle ring to receive the cranked ends of the needles. (1 zoll=1/36th i-neire or 27.8mm);
(iv) straight-bar plain machines: the number of needles in 1.5 inches (38. 1 mm) of a needle bar;
(v) straight-bar rib machines: the number of needles in 1.5 inches (38.Imm) of either needle bar;
(vi) occasionally reference may also be found to a 'universal' gauging system based on the number of needles per 10Omm.
Note 3.. For flat knitting machines needle spacing is sometimes quoted as an alternative to the number of needles per unit length. In such cases the numerical value given is the needle spacing in mm multiplied by 10.
Note 4: For small diameter circular knitting machines a statement of gauge is replaced by one of the total number of needles and the diameter of the cylinder, in inches, e.g., 370x4.5.
Note 5: When the term gauge is applied to a knitted fabric or garment, it refers to the gauge of the knitting machine on which it was made.
2. A term specifying a dimension, usually thickness, of the needles or other loop-forming elements of a knitting machine.gauge; pitchThe distance measured horizontally between spindles, drive drum centres, or adjacent yams, on any multi-position machine.

Gauge

1. A generic term for various measurement instruments such as pressure or thickness gauges. 2. The number of needles per given distance in a knitting machine. 3. The thickness of the knitting needle in the shank and the hook. 4. The number of wales per inch in a knit fabric. 5. On spinning or twisting frames the distance from the center of one spindle to the center of the next spindle in the same row.

Gauge (lace machines)

1. A term specifying the comb spacing, usually expressed as 'x point'. Traditional values have been:
(i) Leavers: the number of comb spaces in 1/2 inch (1 2.7mm);
(ii) furnishings and bobbinet (plain net): the nun-iber of comb spaces in 1 inch (25.4mm).
Note: The number of carriages per unit length is the same in the Leavers and bobbinet machines. The bobbinet machine works two carriages in tandem in each comb space.
2. A term traditionally specifying the number of needles per inch on warp lace machines.

Gauge (linking)

A term specifying the spacing of the points in linking and point seaming machines and expressed as the number of elements per unit of length. Gauge (English): Points in an arc of 1.5 inches (38.Imm). Gauge (American): Points in an arc of 1 inch (25.4mm). The terms 'gauge' and 'point', respectively, are used to differentiate between the two systems, e.g., an English 36gauge linking machine has 24 points per inch and an American 24-point linking machine has 24 points per inch.

Gauge length (testing)

The original length of that portion of the specimen over which strain or change of length is determined.

Gauge marks (testing)

Marks of known separation applied to a specimen.